Tuesday 30 August: Mariehamn to Sandosund

 It was definitely colder last night. The heat wave seems to be over. We pack up and head north out of Mariehamn stopping at Jamala church: oldest in Finland from 1260. Closed but immaculate graveyard! Then further into the wilds crossing bridges and then a ferry to one of the eastern islands of the archipelago Vårdö. Our campsite at Sandosunds is rustic and idyllic. Olaf shows us to a lovely pitch sheltered from the rather strong northerly winds and we set up camp by the water’s edge. We cycle off over several other islands and a ferry. We are the only passengers. Really beautiful wild countryside in the sunshine. The sea seems much clearer here. We retrace our steps back to base before our sauna. We see a majestic white tailed sea eagle soaring in the thermals as we drink our tea. A floating wood fired sauna this time! Then supper at the camp restaurant. Rather an ad hoc affair as Olaf was multitasking somewhat but still enjoyed a nice salad followed by perch with a bottle of house wine (Bulgarian, 25 euros). A bit of rain. And more on the way it seems.