Sunday 21 August: Helsinki

 A relatively leisurely start. We seem to be adjusting to Eastern European time and enjoy breakfast outside our van. We take the metro and feel like locals especially as I am wearing my Finnish Karhu trainers as styled by Izzie! We catch the 10.30 ferry to Suomenlinna, the “fortress of Finland”, built on an island in the mid 18th century to defend the mainland from invasion by various predators! It’s a warm walk across the island to the King’s Gate where there are battlements and several canons and lovely views of the Baltic Sea and local islands. Sailing boats take pleasure in the strong winds. Back to Helsinki in time for lunch at the Karl Fazer cafe with an Art Deco façade established in 1891. In scenic surroundings we enjoy shrimp salad on rye bread and smoked salmon with egg and a delicious specialty Budapest pastry which seems to contain chocolate, strawberries and bananas in a soft sponge. We visit Kampii chapel which looks like an enormous walnut whip. All the Churches have very minimalist interiors. Then to Amos Rex a new modern art gallery which is impressive but leaves us somewhat perplexed! Another loop on the open top bus takes us passed the Sibelius monument and the Olympic Park as well as the impressive Art Deco railway station. We then visit the Kotiharjun Sauna Helsinki’s only original traditional public wood fired sauna dating back to 1928. It is single sex and naked and Simon’s experience is probably more authentic than mine involving temperatures up to 120 degC and sitting out in the street with a load of blokes wrapped only in a towel. My experience was somewhat more genteel and conservative. A welcome beer in a trendy bar to rehydrate before heading back to base camp for M&S curry.